Hammersmith and Fulham, London: The complete area guide

Fulham Palace and Gardens is a hidden gem among idyllic riverside greenery, with its walled gardens being the real showstoppers. Wander among rows of vegetables, pretty trellises and potted plants (some of which you can take home), before stepping inside the gorgeous glasshouse, with its perfectly pruned hedges and colourful flowerbeds. Keep an eye out for the resident cat, who is known to sunbathe in the warmth of the greenhouse!

Inside the palace, discover the history of this former home of the Bishops of London, who lived here for around 1,300 years. Today, it’s a free historic house for the public to enjoy, but you can meet the bishops (well, their portraits) in the Tudor Great Hall. We particularly like the library, which was converted from the palace’s former chapel in the 1820s.

Over in Bishop’s Park, accessible from the palace, there are plenty of ways to get active, with playgrounds, a skate park, scenic gardens and water play areas for the summer. The on-site cafe also does a particularly delicious and very reasonably priced cream tea – but get there before it’s gone, as it’s so popular that it can sell out by the afternoon!

Best for: Exploring beautiful gardens, historic rooms and riverside green space in one visit.
Good to know: There’s no general parking on site and dogs aren’t permitted. There are three entrances, including the main entrance on Bishop’s Avenue. You can bring a picnic, but remember to take your rubbish home. Fulham Palace also hosts events throughout the year, from live music to this year's exciting Santa’s Winter Garden. 

An iconic ground on the banks of the river Thames, Craven Cottage has been home to Fulham Football Club for more than a century. Go behind the scenes on a Craven Cottage Fulham Football Club Stadium Tour and discover the stories, spaces and sporting history that have made this one of west London’s most distinctive football grounds.

Starting on Stevenage Road, where the atmosphere builds on match days, the tour takes you into the heart of the stadium, from the players’ dressing rooms to the spaces where the team prepares for the action. You’ll get a glimpse of what goes on behind the scenes before kick-off, including where those all-important half-time briefings take place, while learning more about the character and heritage of this much-loved ground.

Best for: Getting behind the scenes at one of London’s most atmospheric football grounds.
Good to know: Legends’ Tours are also available on select dates, giving you the chance to explore the stadium alongside Fulham FC greats. Visitors on the tours also get 10% off at the Riverside Market in Fulham Pier, so it’s worth sticking around afterwards for food and riverside views. 

Step into more than 300 years of history at Chiswick House and Gardens, where elegant 18th-century architecture meets beautifully landscaped gardens. The house and gardens were shaped by William Kent and Richard Boyle, who drew inspiration from their travels on the Grand Tour to create this remarkable estate.

 There’s plenty to discover inside the house, too, and we’d recommend allowing around an hour to explore with the free audio guide. You’ll be guided around by Elizabeth McGovern, aka Cora Crawley from Downton Abbey, while extra prompts from curators give you even more insight into the house and its history. There’s also an interactive version for younger visitors, so little ones can get involved too.

Architecture fans will particularly enjoy looking closely at the decorative details and Palladian influences – Chiswick House was an important early example of the style in Britain. Keep an eye out for the little details that reveal William Kent’s influence, too, including scallop shell motifs that crop up throughout the interiors and furnishings. Our favourite paintings are in the Green Room, where landscapes depict people working and enjoying the grounds, bringing the gardens to life in a rather lovely way.

Outside, there’s plenty more to explore, from architectural gems such as the stone Classic Bridge to the gorgeous glass conservatory. We find ourselves coming back time and time again for the packed programme of events, from flea markets and bat walks to wellness experiences, arts and crafts and the famous Chiswick House Dog Show.

Best for: Exploring beautiful gardens, grand architecture and fascinating works of art.
Good to know: Allow around an hour to explore the house with the audio guide. Guided tours of the house and gardens alternate, so check the schedule ahead of your visit to make sure you catch the one you want, or book a private tour if you’d like to see both. There are multiple gates into the gardens, so check the map before you visit to find the most convenient entrance.

Step inside Emery Walker’s House and you’ll feel less like you’re visiting a museum and more like you’ve been invited into someone’s home. This remarkably well-preserved Arts and Crafts interior has remained remarkably intact, giving you a rare chance to see how someone connected to the movement actually lived.

Walker was a close friend of William Morris, and his house is filled with the personal objects, textiles, furniture and books that tell the story of his life and interests. Look closely and you’ll find Persian carpets, Middle Eastern, Spanish and Chinese ceramics, a Jacobean chair and a camel saddle chair, alongside the Arts and Crafts pieces you might expect to see. We particularly loved the hanging bookcase and the cushion made by May Morris, William Morris’s daughter.

What makes the house so special is the personal story behind all these objects. Rather than simply looking at beautiful things, you can begin to understand why they were there and how Walker and his family would have used the space. Even the kitchen, remodelled in the 1960s in an Arts and Crafts style, adds another layer to the house’s story. There’s also a small selection of souvenirs to browse after your visit.

Best for: Arts and Crafts enthusiasts, design lovers and anyone curious about how people really lived in the past.
Good to know: Tours take around 1 hour 15 minutes and run on Thursdays and Saturdays, with no more than 10 visitors at a time. Photography isn’t permitted inside the house, but you can take pictures in the garden. Tours run from March to November, with the house closed during the winter for conservation work. Pair your visit with nearby Kelmscott House, home of the William Morris Society, for a deeper dive into the Arts and Crafts movement.

Go behind the scenes at Fuller’s Griffin Brewery in Chiswick and discover how one of London’s best-known breweries makes its beer. The guided tour takes you around the working brewery, delving into Fuller’s history and brewing methods along the way, before finishing with a tasting of a selection of its ales.

The experience lasts around two hours, giving you plenty of time to explore the brewery and settle in for the tasting. It’s a fun way to discover a different side of Chiswick, particularly if you’re interested in London’s brewing heritage.

Best for: Beer lovers, brewery enthusiasts and a fun experience with friends.
Good to know: Strictly for adults (18+). Wear closed toe shoes and avoid long, flowing clothing. The tour route includes several flights of stairs and there are no places to sit down, so those with mobility issues may find the tour challenging. Arrive at least 15 minutes before the tour start time to sign in.

Few sporting events transform this stretch of the river Thames quite like The Boat Race. Every spring, Oxford and Cambridge go head-to-head in one of the world’s most famous rowing races, with the crews battling it out along the 4.25-mile course from Putney to Mortlake, passing some of west London’s best-known landmarks along the way.

The crews fly by Fulham Palace and Fulham Pier, make their way under Hammersmith Bridge and sweep past Chiswick House before crossing the finish line just before Kew. Blink and you’ll miss them, but the real fun is in staying around to soak up the atmosphere along the river.

In Fulham, the river is teeming with Oxford and Cambridge supporters, as well as anyone else who loves a good day out. Pubs show the race on the telly, while punters take their pints down to the water to watch it in person.

The towns and neighbourhoods along the route get into the competitive spirit. With some quarter of a million people flocking to the area, local pubs and bars put on events and live music for the occasion.

Best for: Experiencing one of London’s biggest sporting days without needing to be a rowing fan.
Good to know: Venues get very busy, so be sure to book a table or tickets for events in advance. Riverside spots can also get extremely crowded, so plan your viewing spot ahead of tim

Sam’s Riverside Sam’s Riverside is a gem right beside Hammersmith Bridge, warm and inviting with an exciting menu that uses locally sourced ingredients – we’re talking veggies grown in the gardens of Chiswick House. Sharing plates on the terrace in summer are a must, while intimate dinners indoors under warm lighting are just as inviting.

The menu covers all bases, from rich sauces with tender meats to light bites in the form of fresh seafood. The crab toast was a standout, and we can’t stop thinking about the crispy parmesan churros. Do not skip these. The wine list is also impressive; we handed the decision over to our expert server, and every glass paired perfectly with the food on our plates.

Just down the road, you’ll find another establishment worth a look in – The River Cafe, the Michelin-starred restaurant by Ruth Rogers and the late Rose Gray, known for its Italian cooking and riverside setting.

For something more relaxed, The Crabtree is a great option for tasty pub food served in its extensive garden. With screens galore, catch live sport while you tuck into smashed fries with mushroom crackling – a favourite of ours. 

Best for: Scenic dinners by the river Thames
Good to know: Some terraces may not be open during the winter, while others provide heaters for the tables. Sam's Riverside has its sister restaurants Sam's Kitchen (think wholesome brunches and tasty smash burgers and Sam's Waterside in Brentford. Kid's menus are available - check online ahead of visiting and let the team know of any dietary requirements.

A wholesome spot beloved by locals and visitors to the area, The Hound is one that feels like home. Housed in a former police station, it has gorgeous interiors with dark wood, bottle-lined walls and plush burgundy benches, while the bright glasshouse courtyard is perfect for a sunny afternoon. The team are wonderfully attentive without being overbearing, making you feel welcome from the moment you walk up the steps.

The pub leans into its history, with remnants of the old police station tucked throughout, from burgundy seating where the former stables once stood to old cells now converted into a wine cellar. As for the food, look out for signatures such as the black pudding scotch egg, buttermilk chicken, highland wagyu hound dog and seriously chunky fish and chips. The scotch egg has a crisp coating and jammy centre, while the fish comes with an extra-crispy batter that’s perfect for anyone who loves the scraps at the chippy. Save room for the banana and peanut cheesecake, too, with caramelised banana and plenty of crumb.

Over at the Harwood Arms, London’s only Michelin-starred pub, you can expect an elevated experience with fresh British produce expertly crafted into exciting plates, with a focus on game and wild food. Highlights include Dorset Sika deer and red-legged partridge with caramelised celeriac.

Switching up entirely, plant-based restaurant The Gate has been serving the local community and travellers alike since 1989. This vegetarian restaurant knows how to master ingredients to produce exciting flavours. Look out for the Korean Fried Tofu – a great balance of sweet and spicy, and for bigger bites the Beetroot Burger with a creamy aioli and smoked cheddar is a crowd-pleaser. 

Best for: Trying much-loved local restaurants and pubs, from elevated British dining to plant-based plates.
Good to know: The Hound gets particularly busy at weekends, so book ahead if you have a particular time or table in mind. It also hosts a pub quiz on Tuesday evenings and live music on Fridays and Saturdays. The Gate is a plant-based restaurant, but if you have specific dietary requirements, it’s worth calling ahead to make sure they can accommodate you.

It’s no secret that us Brits love a good pint, and west London is full of historic spots perfect for sinking a tipple or two in a scenic location. Not only that, but the food menus are just as impressive as the drink selections, with plenty of character to go around.

If you love a poky establishment, low ceilings and hidden nooks, with a deck overlooking the river, head to The Dove. We’d love to gatekeep this one, but it’s just too lovely not to share. The roast is particularly delicious – think hefty slices of pork belly on a bed of roasted veggies and crispy potatoes.

A little further down the river, you’ve got The Old Ship. Unassuming from the outside, this place is like a Tardis. Its balcony seating is perfect for a summer’s day beverage while people (and pooches) watching. It’s relaxed but would be ideal for an occasion – birthdays, anniversaries, impressing the in-laws – it works for all of the above. We also like that there are plenty of themed offers, such as ‘Bloody Mary season’.

At The Old City Arms, you’ll find all the classics behind the bar, but this is a Fulham supporters’ home, so you’ll be sharing a drink with local fans on match days. There’s darts and pool for entertainment, while the whole place gets a little bit livelier when Fulham are playing.

Over at Brook House, homely interiors meet a slightly more polished feel, with an elevated menu ranging from peri-peri spatchcocked chicken with chimichurri to prettily presented preserved figs with salt-baked beetroot.

Best for: Riverside drinks, Sunday roasts and lively match days.
Good to know: These pubs get particularly busy at weekends and around Fulham match days, so book ahead where possible. The Dove doesn’t take bookings for its outside tables, while The Old Ship and Brook House are dog friendly. 

Fulham has many great cafes, bakeries and cake shops dotted through its idyllic streets, with BoysnBerry the place to go for fluffy pancakes and a generous cup of coffee. Just down the road, Ta’mini Lebanese Bakery (Ta’mini meaning “feed me”, and boy, do they do that well!) is a personal favourite. Their freshly made za’atar flatbreads are the perfect vessel for cold mezze or dunking in delicious dips and sauces. We recommend having yours served warm.

Bread Lab is a great riverside spot between Hammersmith and Fulham, putting out freshly baked sourdough loaves daily. If you’re heading out for a run along the Thames, make this your final stop and take a loaf home for breakfast, pile it high with toppings or make some seriously good sarnies.

Elder Press is a little sanctuary just off the waterside in Hammersmith, with a welcoming, bustling atmosphere but quiet tables upstairs if you fancy stopping for brunch. The Korean fried rice is particularly tasty, always served with a lovely jammy egg.

Debbie Joe in Chiswick has a wholesome family feel, with the business inspired by the founder’s own mother. Everything on the counter is made from scratch by the team, with pastries a particular reason to pop in. They have three locations across west London, including Debbie Joe The Pavilion on Brook Green, where you can also grab an ice cream in summer.

Finally, across the river in Barnes, Fat Goose is worth the short walk over Hammersmith Bridge (plus, you can enjoy some pretty views en route). It’s a locally run spot with plenty of love poured into its changing menu, which is shared weekly on its socials. Previous specials have included passion fruit meringue pie, honeycomb ice cream sandwiches and cinnamon monkey bread, so there’s always a reason to see what’s new.

Best for: Coffee catch-ups, brunch stops and freshly baked treats.
Good to know: Opening hours and menus vary between venues, with some changing their specials regularly, so check ahead before visiting. 

The Lyric Hammersmith offers audiences everything from plays with big names to intimate concerts. The one to look out for this year is Cinderella – an enchanting festive treat for the whole family.

Over at the Capital Theatre in nearby Earl’s Court, you can check out the latest production of Dirty Dancing where the audience is never more than nine rows from the action.

If it’s music, theatre, comedy and everything in between you’re after, Eventim Apollo has been entertaining audiences since the 1930s, hosting legendary acts including The Beatles and The Rolling Stones. It’s also welcomed some major theatre productions – we still talk about Sister Act with Jennifer Saunders. For more intimate gigs, but with the same electric atmosphere, Bush Hall is a great choice.

Best for: Catching everything from big-name shows and musicals to intimate live gigs.
Good to know: Check individual venue listings for upcoming shows and book ahead for popular productions and performances. 

A destination in its own right, Fulham Pier is a spectacular spot to spend an evening by the river, whether you’re enjoying live music from DJs as you bask in the sun from a deck chair or joining one of the regular salsa dancing classes.

Beyond the riverside views, there’s plenty to keep you coming back, with restaurants, bars and the Riverside Market alongside regular cultural events and live entertainment. The destination is also home to the members-only Lighthouse Social, the recently opened Sæl Spa and the 13-room Fulham Pier Hotel, making it possible to turn a riverside visit into a longer stay. We can confirm that a frozen margarita with sweeping views isn’t one you forget in a hurry!

The star of the show for us is still the Riverside Market, with a changing line-up of food vendors and plenty of space to sit and soak up the atmosphere. The fish tacos are unreal (washed down with a refreshing Mexican beer), while the rotating vendors mean there’s always a reason to see what’s new.

In winter, Fulham Pier really comes into its own, transforming into a woodland-inspired festive escape with twinkling lights, seasonal food and drink, live music and family entertainment. Look out for Santa’s Roller Disco, festive markets, craft workshops, gospel choirs and after-dark events, while dog owners can bring their four-legged friends along for the festive Santa Paws experiences.

Best for: Riverside evenings, live entertainment and trying something new.
Good to know: The programme changes throughout the year, with food vendors and events rotating regularly, so check what’s on before you visit. The Riverside Market and Constance are dog friendly, and Fulham Pier can be accessed directly from the Thames Path. During the festive season, the Christmas programme begins in November, with events running throughout the winter.

Lark is a family-run independent shop in Fulham, with everything from gifts and homeware to clothing and accessories. We particularly love its selection of cards, with fun, quirky designs that are almost good enough to frame. Hemels has a similar independent feel and does particularly well with fashion. Check out its seasonal collections for quality pieces in flattering cuts, colours and patterns.

Also in Fulham, Becky Blooms combines expert floristry with a cute coffee shop, creating bouquets for all kinds of occasions. The small courtyard at the front is a lovely spot to sit with a brew, and it’s also where locals can pick up a Christmas tree in winter.

For bookworms, Foster Books is a gorgeous little shop specialising in rare and out-of-print books. We love perusing the shelves and admiring the old covers, with classic literature sitting alongside beautifully preserved editions. Nearby, The Old Cinema is an antique and vintage department store that’s been around since the 1970s. Inside, you’ll find mid-century furniture, traditional artwork and vintage jewellery. They also host fun pop-ups, so there’s often something new to discover.

Best for: Finding independent fashion, homeware, books, vintage treasures and thoughtful gifts.
Good to know: Some outlets also offer online enquiries or collections if you’re looking for something specific, while Foster Books has gift cards available for the avid reader in your life. 

This area of London is particularly good for seeking out pre-loved gems, with quality clothing, vintage pieces and even designer finds often hiding among the rails. Think of it as spending less while doing a bit of good.

Along Fulham Road, Mary’s Living & Giving is small but mighty, with a carefully curated collection that’s well worth rummaging through. We know we can count on its denim selection when hunting down a great pair of Levi’s, while Royal Trinity Hospice is another favourite, with exciting, regularly changing seasonal offerings. Keep your eyes peeled for when that Burberry trench finds its way into the window.

For little ones, FARA has a dedicated children’s shop in Fulham, packed with toys, books and clothing, as well as bigger essentials such as cots and buggies. Just across Putney Bridge, Shop from Crisis is another treasure, but make sure you head downstairs, where you’ll find retro video games, records, 90s ski jackets, faux fur coats, jazzy oversized shirts and plenty more vintage items.

Over in Hammersmith, TRAID is a trendy charity shop chain with plenty to tempt vintage fashion fans, from grunge-inspired pieces to neon rave gear. It also has its own ethical fashion label, TRAIDremade, which produces clothes exclusively from damaged textiles.

Best for: Bargain designer and high street brand finds.
Good to know: It’s always worth taking your own clothes along to donate but double-check whether shops are accepting them at the time. You can also sign up to Gift Aid, so your donation can raise more money at no extra cost to you.

North End Road Market is one of Fulham’s most dynamic spots, with stalls, independent shops and cafes lining the street. The market itself has been running since the 1880s, making it a west London institution, and is the place to go for affordable fresh fruit, vegetables and everyday groceries. It runs six days a week, while seasonal markets bring in traders from further afield selling artisanal produce and other treats.

Over in Hammersmith, Lyric Square and King Street host different markets throughout the week, so there’s always something to browse. You’ll find everything from handmade pasta and crepes to hearty roast dinners at the food markets, while seasonal events bring even more stalls, food and entertainment to the streets. Look out for the Hammersmith Winter Festival, North End Road Christmas Market and summer street festivals in both Hammersmith and Fulham.

In Chiswick, Chiswick Flower Market takes over the high street on the first Sunday of every month, with beautiful blooms, plants and plenty of atmosphere. There’s often live music too, while the market’s durable and rather stylish tote bags make a great memento. It launched in 2020 as the first new flower market in London for 150 years, and there’s a different themed market on most Sundays: antiques and vintage on the second, cheese on the third, food on the fourth and open art spaces when there’s a fifth Sunday.

Best for: Fresh produce, street food, vintage finds and seasonal events.
Good to know: Markets generally go ahead whatever the weather, so dress accordingly and check timings before you visit. If you’re a trader interested in taking part, contact the individual market organisers directly.

Aragon House is a Grade II-listed Georgian building overlooking Parsons Green, with its original external fabric retained as part of a sensitive redevelopment. Today, it’s a relaxed community venue combining a pub, restaurant, basement bar, co-working space, function rooms and a large garden.

Upstairs, there are just 15 bedrooms, making it a cosy choice for a weekend escape or shorter stay. Rooms come in three sizes – Cosy, Comfy and Bigger Comfy – with plush beds and all the modern comforts you’d expect. It’s also dog-friendly, while downstairs you’ll find the garden restaurant and bar, plus the Green Room Bar for cocktails. Seasonal packages can also include dinner and breakfast for a more leisurely stay.

Best for: A cosy weekend escape, leisurely stays and exploring Fulham and Parsons Green.
Good to know: Parsons Green station is just moments away, making central London easy to reach. The King’s Road is around 15 minutes away by local transport for shopping, while the Saatchi Gallery is also within easy reach.

Mercure London Earls Court is a four-star hotel close to Stamford Bridge, making it handy for Chelsea FC fans on a tour or match day, while several Tube stations nearby make exploring the wider area straightforward. It’s also within easy reach of top attractions, including the Science Museum, Natural History Museum, Kensington Palace and Holland Park.

For something a little different, look out for the hotel’s “Layers of Time” themed rooms inspired by Doctor Who and the TARDIS outside Earl’s Court station, while the apartments offer a useful option for bigger families wanting more space.

Best for: Chelsea FC fans, families and exploring west London.
Good to know: West Brompton and Earl’s Court stations are both within walking distance, with direct connections across London. The hotel also has apartments for longer stays, giving families and groups more flexibility than a standard hotel room.

Just around the corner from Eventim Apollo, Holiday Inn Express London – Hammersmith is particularly handy if you’re attending a concert, show or other event. It’s a straightforward, modern base with basically everything you need for a comfortable stay.

The contemporary rooms make it an easy choice when location and convenience are the priorities, whether you’re staying in London for an event or using Hammersmith as a base for exploring west London.

Best for: Concerts, shows and fuss-free overnight stays.
Good to know: Hammersmith Underground station is around an eight-minute walk away, with four Tube lines giving you easy connections across London. Breakfast is included with your stay, making it a particularly straightforward option for short breaks and overnight stays.

Clayton Hotel Chiswick is a four-star base in Chiswick, with a convenient location for business travellers and exploring west London. The hotel’s Grill restaurant has recently had a refresh, offering plenty of dishes to choose from, while the Globe Bar is on hand for cocktails. Or, opt for personalised room service if you’re on a tight schedule.

There are also fitness facilities, so you can squeeze in a workout during your stay.

Best for: Business trips and exploring Chiswick
Good to know: The hotel has dedicated meeting and event spaces, making it a practical option for work trips and conferences. It’s also well placed for exploring Chiswick’s restaurants, shops and green spaces, including Chiswick House and Gardens.