Royal Hospital Chelsea tour review: Exploring the home of the Chelsea Pensioners

We gather in the cobbled Soane Stable Yard of the Royal Hospital Chelsea, as an impeccably turned-out man, I suspect in his late-60s, approaches. He's wearing a scarlet-red coat, perfectly pressed black trousers and a shako cap. “I'm Bill, and I'm your guide today," he says in what I immediately recognise as a Scottish twang.

But I soon realise I'm wrong… not about the accent, but his age. Bill is actually 85! Something about the Royal Hospital seems to keep these Chelsea Pensioners youthful. He tells us he skydived a few years ago, inspired by a fellow resident… one of around 20 resident ladies here who completed a wing walk in her 90s. It could be something in the water, or possibly in the beer at the on-site Chelsea Pensioner Club, which we pass as Bill strides confidently backwards, gesticulating with his arms.

Bill points to the initials on his hat… "R. H., meaning Royal Hospital”… He explains that it has never actually been a hospital, but the building's name comes from the French word "hospitalité” – a place of respite and, in effect, a retirement home. But it's clearly far from the usual retirement home.

What to see at Royal Hospital Chelsea

Walking from Soane Stable Yard, where horses were once kept, we head past the Chelsea Pensioner Club and set foot in original 6ft by 6ft “berths”, rooms where the original Chelsea Pensioners stayed. Clad with dark wood pilfered from a marooned French naval frigate and with the famous scarlet coats and black tricorn hats hanging by the side, the berths are snug but have everything the residents would have needed when it was first built. We hear the lodgings are much more modern today, but they offer great insight into what life was like for the first Chelsea Pensioners.

We soon stroll into the colonnaded Figure Court – a peaceful spot where the Chelsea Pensioners clearly like to sit and relax with views across the lawn and the river to Battersea Power Station. As residents pass our small group, Bill greets each by name, and they all warmly welcome us; it's clearly a friendly community.

Next up, the Great Hall dining room – for me, the most impressive part of the Royal Hospital Chelsea. Its black-and-white chessboard floor tiles, wood panelling and traditional green lamps keep it frozen in time. Names and dates of military conflicts line the walls. There's even a table where the Duke of Wellington lay in state for seven days… now that's some proper history right there!

We then step inside the Wren Chapel. Bill's mood remains upbeat but more sombre as he removes his hat and explains that every resident who passes away can have a final service in this multidenominational place of worship. A book of remembrance lists those who have recently departed, nearly all in their 90s and 100s. It's a very moving place, with an impressive fresco in the half-dome of the apse.

As we contemplate that most Pensioners spend their last days here, we head out into Figure Court to study a statue of Charles II in gleaming gold, before looking out onto the grounds where events take place. Bill points to a wooded area where the relatively recent addition to the calendar, Chelsea Winter Village, is held. "It’s fantastic", he says, as he explains that the Chelsea Pensioners are invited to attend all events held here across the 66-acre (27-hectare) grounds.

History of the Royal Hospital Chelsea

King Charles II – allegedly encouraged by his mistress Nell Gwyn – founded the Royal Hospital in 1681 to help injured servicemen who were "broken and aged by war" (as the Latin inscription on the building states, ably translated by Bill).

The king even commissioned acclaimed architect Sir Christopher Wren, who built St Paul’s Cathedral and many churches in the City of London, to do the job. It was completed in 1692 and today around 300 pensioners live here at any one time.

Daily life for the Chelsea Pensioners

In a short video at the start of the tour, we learn about the activities on offer for the “In-Pensioners” (those who live here), from bowls to woodwork and movie nights. When I ask Bill about his favourite thing to do outside the complex in Chelsea, he shrugs and says he has everything he needs here within the Royal Hospital Chelsea walls… there's even a gym (maybe that's the secret to their youthfulness?).

There's apparently a curry-oke night (curry plus karaoke) in the Chelsea Pensioner Club in a few days' time. Bill wouldn't divulge his karaoke song of choice, but his response to our suggestions of Vindaloo or Korma Chameleon was met with a cry of: "I'm the only one who's supposed to tell bad jokes here!" – he certainly tells plenty, adding a fun twist to the tour and plenty of banter with our small group of 10 people. In fact, he regularly tells us off for not asking enough questions!

He says, eyes lighting up, that moving here four years ago changed his life. It's not only a fantastic place to live, but also a great way to keep in touch with fellow comrades who served with him during his 15 years in the British Army.

How do Chelsea Pensioners qualify for the Royal Hospital Chelsea?

To live here, In-Pensioners must have served in the British Army and must give up their military pension. The Ministry of Defence commandeers their pension, but the government department gives the Royal Hospital a grant to keep it running. Their residency provides them accommodation, meals and healthcare… it's a fair trade-off. Funds are also generated from hosting events in the Royal Hospital grounds – the most famous being the annual Chelsea Flower Show.

Royal Hospital Chelsea tour: the verdict

A tour of Royal Hospital Chelsea is an ideal tour for military fans, history buffs and those seeking a more unique London experience rooted in tradition.

Our estimated 90-minute tour lasts two hours – we clearly asked enough questions after all! It's a leisurely tour, but full of information, and we cover the main parts of the hospital site, giving a flavour of the hospital's history and importance, as well as its impact on the Pensioners who live here.