Sugar Hut

Starting with a positive a theme that wont last Sugar Hut is a very pleasant surprise. Its located at the Fulham tip of North End Road behind a very austere front. Unless youre looking for it, you probably wont notice it. Even if you are looking for it, you might need talking in as did my dining companion. Anyway, you ring the door bell, a waiter answers, ushers you in, pulls back a red velvet curtain and suddenly you find yourself in a hugely decadent, Thaithemed room. Its a great visual rush that puts you in a good mood straight away. Its a shame then that the mood doesnt last. With my guest a relative newcomer to Thai food we went the simple route and ordered the Jasmine set menu, which appeared to cover all the obvious bases and temperatures. The result though was a mix of the overly polite we chose Thai, chaps, so give us some Thai heat! Even Tomyam Talay, hot and sour seafood soup marked with three chilis to indicate its potential kick, couldnt muster a punch. Only Phanaeng Nua braised beef in a dry aromatic curry with coconut milk and Kaffir lime leaves was above average. Overpriced at approx £40 a head. One for posers only.