Almeida Restaurant

Islington, according to my companion a resident who, in AA Gill fashion, has gamely offered to be known as The Blonde has been lacking a good restaurant. Courtesy of Almeida, Sir Terence Conrans amalgam of French cuisine and North London cool, its now got one. The Blonde dived in to one of the Almeidas most welcome innovations, the Trolley of Charcuterie, and a superb Duck with Pistachio terrine. My Soupe a loignon with its marrowtopped croutons was a meaty rival to the best of Paris. The Blonde followed with Lemon Sole Meuniere, an inevitably bony but beautifully cooked piece of fish. I went for Coq au vin, a dish long overdue a revival. Almeidas interpretation is good but a little light on the vin aspect. That had to be provided by the Borgueil Cuvee des Galichets. Desserts were of the similar quality. The Blondes Marquise au chocolat elicited murmurs of delight as did the Trolley of tarts, a wonderful idea where you either choose from a selection of freshly made tarts aux pommes, citron, chocolat, etc or do as I do and tuck into a smackerel of every one purely in the name of research, of course in order to name the prune dAgen the pick of the bunch. All in all a highly satisfying experience and a welcomed addition to London.