Just St. James

A classy little Modern British number that’s ideal for impressing a business associate, lunching with your parents or dining out with someone that matters. We’re talking good food, fine wine and portions of a size that won’t leave you wanting to chew off your date’s arm at the end of the night. Also worth a look for its classy brunch menu – check it out after a browse round Tiffany’s.

Just St James is the sort of West End establishment that scores highly for décor its a huge room, all big furniture and balconies but not so well on value for money. At the moment, its an event dining setting with event dining prices but not event dining food. Thats not to say its bad. Its not. Its highly decent. But £10 for Gravadlax? £8 for an Artichoke Salad? Hmm.

Admittedly, the Gravadlax wasexcellent, while the Artichokes, served with mushrooms and asparagus tips in a truffle dressing, was a good combination of flavours, but they werent £18 good.

Cornfed Chicken Breast, Coriander and Asian Greens (£14.50) was well cooked and sourced, with the eastern trimmings giving a pleasing edge. Not so good was Seared Tuna, Pepperonata, Basil Oil and Red Onion Compote (£14.80). The pepperonata etc were full of flavour and the fish appeared to be fresh. So why char it way past the grey side of medium rather than the rare state requested?

Things rallied at the end with a little cheese again clearly wellsourced and a single glass of Chilean Chardonnay (£4.30) from the very comprehensive wine list (it even includes some English white from the owners vineyard). Adequate but could do better.

Space and undeniable grandeur make a visit to this converted bank, bang in the centre of town, really memorable. Just St James, near Piccadilly, comprises luxurious restaurant and two bars over two floors, linked by a sweeping staircase (or funky glass lift), and features leather sofas, buzzing bar and marble columns. It's an impressive showcase for modern British cuisine, which is stylishly presented.