Thames River Guide: Twickenham to Richmond

Ham House. Copyright Courtesy Richmond upon Thames Council

Can you imagine a riverside view so spectacular that it’s protected by an Act of Parliament? Well, head to the top of Richmond Hill and see it for yourself. This whole area is green, pastoral and full of history and character; no wonder it's known as London’s Arcadia!

Hippie Paradise

Eel Pie Island is a place of pilgrimage for music fans. The Rolling Stones, The Who, Rod Stewart and Eric Clapton are just some of the musical heavyweights who played at the Eel Pie Hotel during the 1960s. In the final years before the hotel burnt down in 1971, it had become a hippie commune!

Eel Pie Island. Copyright Courtesy of Richmond upon Thames Council

Today little evidence remains of the island's musical scene, although indie band, the Mystery Jets, come from here. But it's still a pretty fascinating place to visit. It is home to around 120 residents, who live in the 50 or so houses. Some of the trademark wooden shacks still exist, although many have been replaced with shiny new modernist palaces.

You can reach the island, which is traffic-free, by footbridge on the banks of the Twickenham riverside.

Royal Hunting Ground

In 1625 King Charles I fled the city of London to escape the plague and moved his court to Richmond Palace, originally built by Henry VII. However there is very little left of the palace today, and what remains is now a private residence, not open to the public.

Charles I enclosed over 2,000 acres of land, turning it into his playground for hunting deer. Today, Richmond Park is London's largest royal park and is still home to free-roaming deer, as well as hills, grassland, 600-year-old veteran oak trees, cycle paths and bridleways. But one of the main attractions is the Isabella Plantation - a woodland garden so magical it looks as though it has come straight out of a children's storybook.

Historic Houses

For an insight into 17th century court life, the lavish Ham House is an unmissable attraction. It dates back to 1610 and much of the original interior decor remains intact. If only walls could talk, there would certainly be stories to tell. Ham House was at the heart of royal and political intrigue during the Civil War and subsequent Restoration (1660-1685). And if you're a believer, the house is reportedly one of the most haunted in Britain.

In the 18th century, elegant riverside villas lined the riverbanks between Richmond and Hampton Court. Of these, the Palladian Marble Hill House is the last complete survivor. It was built in the 1720s for Henrietta Howard, one-time mistress of King George II. Inside you'll find early Georgian furniture and paintings, together with a short film about the house, grounds and Henrietta herself. She was often at the centre of the 18th century court life, and never too far from gossip.

Eating, Drinking and Sleeping

Richmond riverside is dotted with cafés and pubs, including the Slug and Lettuce, which has tables and customers spilling out onto the promenade.

Just opposite Eel Pie Island, on Twickenham riverside, The White Swan is a traditional 17th century watering hole.

For more formal alfresco dining try the Gaucho Richmond on the riverside or you can enjoy pizza and pasta on the river at the H2O Floating Restaurant.

And if you need a bed for the night, Richmond Hill Hotel, a Georgian town house hotel, and Richmond Gate Hotel, overlooking Richmond Park, are both highly recommended.

Getting There

The nearest stations are Twickenham railway station and Richmond Tube and train station. See our travel section for more information. Signposts at the stations indicate the route to the Thames.

Once you're on the river, it's easy to get from the north to the south bank and back again. There are three crossings - Twickenham Bridge, Richmond Bridge and Richmond Lock - as well as the Ham foot ferry, which operates during weekends from February to October.